Materials: sport weight yarn, (350 yards/100 g, test knitter had plenty left over)

Sample done in Mountain Colors Weavers wool in the Steelhead colorway

Needles: 2 #2 (2.75 mm) circular needles, or size needed to obtain gauge.

(If you wish to use DPNs, I recommend using 5)

Gauge - 7 stitches per inch.

The instep stitches stay on one needle throughout, and the heel stitches on the other.

Cast on 60 stitches loosely. Move half the stitches to the second needle. Join, being careful not to twist the cast-on row. Work 13 rounds of K3, p2 ribbing (or about 1 1/2 inches). Then work one round of *K1, p4; rep from * around.

Pattern rounds:
Rnd 1: *K4, p1; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: *K3, p2; rep from * around.
Rnd 3: *K2, p3; rep from * around.
Rnd 4: *K1, p4; rep from * around.

Repeat the 4 pattern rounds until your leg is long enough. I suggest 12 pattern repeats for about five inches. Our test knitter found that 15 pattern repeats past the ribbing gave a total of 7 1/2 inch cuffs. End on a K1, p4 row.

When you are satisfied with the length of the leg, begin your heel flap on the 30 stitches on one needle while the other waits.

Row 1:
Sl 1 purlwise, * K1, Sl 1 knitwise; repeat from * until last stitch, K1.
Row 2:
Sl 1 purlwise, p28, K1

Repeat above 2 rows 15 times, for a total of 30 rows.

Or if you prefer an eye of partridge style heel flap:
Row 1:
Sl 1 purlwise, * K1, Sl 1 knitwise; repeat from * until last stitch, K1.
Row 2:
Sl 1 purlwise, p28, K1
Row 3:
Sl 2 purlwise, * K1, Sl 1 knitwise; repeat from * until last 2 stitches, K2.
Row 4:
Sl 1 purlwise, p28, K1

Repeat the above four rows 7 times, for a total of 28 rows. Then repeat row 1 and row 2 once more.

Turning the heel:
Row 1: sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn
Row 2: sl1, p5, P2tog, p1, turn
Row 3: sl1, k6, ssk, k1, turn
Row 4: sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 5: s1, k8, ssk, k1, turn
Row 6: sl1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 7: sl1, k10, ssk, k1, turn
Row 8: sl1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 9: sl1, k12, ssk, k1, turn
Row 10: sl1, p13, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 12: sl1, k14, ssk, k1, turn
Row 13: sl1, p15, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 14: sl1, k18

Picking up Gusset stitches:

With the same needle that you've just K18 with, pick up 15 stitches along the side of the heel flap. Pick up one more stitch in the intersection where the heel flap meets the instep stitches, to prevent a hole.

Switch to the instep needle, start the pattern rounds again, with a K4p1 row. The instep needle will simply be following the pattern rounds all down the foot.

With the empty end of the heel stitches needle, pick up one stitch where the heel flap meets the instep. Then pick up 15 stitches along that side of the heel flap.

(Yes, at this point you will have 50 stitches on that needle. It is a bit tricky at first, but gets easier quickly)

Gusset:

Knit across the heel stitches and the gusset stitches to the last stitch, which you'd picked up in the intersection. Knit it twisted.

Knit next round *in the pattern stitch* on the instep needle.

Heel needle, knit the first stitch twisted, knit to center.

Your gusset rounds now start from here.
Round 1 - knit to last 3 stitches of heel needle, K2tog, K1. Instep needle, continue pattern. Heel needle, K1, SSK, knit to center/marker.
Round 2 - K all sts on the heel needle, continue pattern stitch on the instep needle.
Continue these two rounds until the heel needle has 30 stitches on it.

Foot:

For the foot, knit in pattern on the instep needle and in stockinette on the heel needle until the foot is two inches short of the end of the toes.

End on a K1, p4 row.

Toe:

The pattern repeats end here, you will knit all stitches. Again, the rounds 'start' at the middle of the heel needle, use a marker if need be. Knit to the middle of the heel needle.

Round 1 - knit to last 3 stitches of heel needle, K2tog, K1. Instep needle, K1, SSK, knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1. Heel needle, K1, SSK, knit to center/marker.

Round 2 - K all sts.

Continue this until there are 12 stitches left on each needle. Knit one round. Knit to the end of the heel needle. Slip the 4 sts closest to the needle ends over their adjacent neighbors. Use the kitchener stitch to join the remaining 10 instep stitches to the remaining 10 heel stitches.